My Introduction to Montblanc

When I was younger, I had heard of Montblanc and was vaguely aware that it made fancy pens.  However,  upon actually seeing one of these pens, I nonchalantly inspected it and felt absolutely nothing. Not a single note of interest, besides a 'hmm, nice pen'.  Perhaps I was not particularly interested in pens back then, just as I was not interested in watches either.  As I have become older, my perceptions toward quality timekeeping and writing instruments have gradually changed.  It is quite funny that one starts to really appreciate such devices upon reaching a certain age.


Perhaps what intrigues me about these highly personal objects is that they reflect our personality and desires, such as the status or wealth flaunted when signing your name with a thousand dollar pen (that's US Dollars by the way). Yet, I think it is more than just another medium for building your image.  For such craftsmanship and fastidious attention to detail, these pens will last past your lifetime, just like a quality timepiece. And thus, I started to become more aware of brands such as Parker, Waterman, Visconti and ST Dupont.  Naturally, it also awakened my interest in Montblanc.

via: 9penshop.com

Interestingly, most folks that I have spoken are also aware of Montblanc, but they seem to think that it is a French company, as its name, Mont Blanc or 'White Mountain', is derived from the highest mountain in the French Alps.  However, it is in fact from Germany, where it was founded at Hamburg in 1908, where the company was initially called the Simplo Fillerpen Company. This changed after creating their second pen, when the founders were searching for a symbol to represent their ideals and principles. Eventually, they decided to use the highest mountain in Western Europe, with its perpetually snow-capped summit and six glaciers, to embody their commitment to the highest quality standards as well as the timelessness of their pens and company.  Hence the white star symbol is placed on the cap of their pens to represent this snow-covered summit.  Perhaps it was this timelessness that attracted me towards Montblanc, where trends come in and out of fashion, governments change, but Montblanc will still be here, lasting on for generations.

via: wheremilan.com

Montblanc produces a wide range of writing tools, but their most famous is its fountain pen, namely the Meisterstuck or 'Masterpiece' in English. The large, cigar-shaped pen has classically been made from a black resin and the bands are plated in gold.  The nib is created from solid gold, with 4810 etched onto it, indicating the height of the Mont Blanc summit.  As gold is a relatively soft metal, the nib will form to the owner's writing style, but the tip is actually another metal alloy that is harder than gold to prevent damage to the nib when writing.   The basic shapes are produced by machinery, but the finer details of each component are individually finished by the hands of skilled craftsmen.  What is more impressive is that all these components are produced in-house to ensure the quality is up to their high standards.

It is no wonder that John F. Kennedy used a Montblanc to sign important documents with, and so did Mikhail S. Gorbachev when he signed his resignation from the presidency of the Soviet Union. Used by highly influential people during significant events only adds to the legacy passed down by the founders.  Thus, implying that when one purchases a Montblanc pen, one does not only obtain a high quality writing instrument, but also buys into a part of the tradition of the hundred year old brand, Montblanc.

Exotic Beverage - Thai Tea

Thai tea originates from Thailand as per its name.  It is known as ‘cha-yen’ in the Thai language, which translates into “cold tea”. This strongly brewed tea is made from cut, black tea leaves, with red and yellow food colourants added to provide its distinctive orange colour. Quite often, star anise powder is also mixed into the blend, to exude a subtle, sweet liquorice flavour, while others add crushed tamarind seeds and orange blossoms for a slightly bitter yet citrusy taste.
The result is an unique spicy and floral flavoured tea, which is softened out and sweetened by adding condensed milk and sugar.  

Quite often, thai tea is served chilled in a tall glass, where the condensed milk and sugar are blended with the tea before it is poured over ice.  Thereafter, a few drops of evaporated milk is splashed over the iced tea to give it a creamier texture.  It is a very popular beverage that is found throughout Thailand and in many Thai restaurants throughout the world. On the other hand, many Thai people also drink this tea hot, called cha-ron, in the morning.  Usually the hot tea is consumed with ‘you tiao’  or chopstick cake, which is a golden-brown, deep-fried strip of dough. Similarly, Taiwanese people also eat ‘you tiao’ for breakfast, but generally it is with soya milk.

A word of caution though, due to the large amounts of sugar and condensed milk that are usually mixed with the tea, I find that Thai tea is often tooth-achingly sweet.  However, this can be adjusted if you ask them to reduce the sugar concentration. Despite this, it is a refreshing and flavourful tea that is growing in popularity all over Asia.

Tainan's own national park

There are a great number of tourist attractions in Tainan, most of which are historical sites, such as the Chihkan Towers, Anping Fort and many temples that have been around for ages and ages.  While these are impressive sites that are definitely worth visiting, there are a few other wondrous places to visit, that may perhaps be a bit off the beaten path.

Located outside of Tainan City, north of Anping Harbour, lies Taijiang National Park. Yes, that’s right, Tainan also has its own national park. It is Taiwan’s eighth and newest national park, where it was established in 2009.  The national park covers almost 50 square kilometers of coastal landscape, where the majority of the area comprises of ecologically valuable wetlands.  These wetlands are divided into four main areas, namely Zengwen Estuary Wetlands, Shicao Wetlands, Qigu Salt Field Wetlands and Yanshui Estuary Wetlands, where each wetland is abundant with its own natural treasures.

The Taijiang national park is not just a diverse natural environment with rare and endangered animal species such as the Black-faced Spoonbill, but it is also a significant historical location, as the Taijiang area is one of the earliest places that was developed by Han immigrants from mainland China during the Ming  and Qing dynasties. This national park retains thorough records of the immigrants’ cultivation history as well as the historical and cultural remains of the indigenous Siraya Pingpu tribe. Hence, the Taijiang national park offers serene, natural beauty as well as rich cultural histories for visitors to appreciate.  It really is a wonderful place to admire the sunset over a lagoon, cycle leisurely around the wetlands or relax on a boat ride through tranquil estuaries.  The scenic spots are many and diverse, however some are quite dispersed from each other, so using your own transportation is the most convenient. However, the Tainan City Bus, route 99, is also able to take you to most of the scenic places.

A great place to start would be the Shicao Green Tunnel, which offers scenic boat tours between the mangroves and river channels.  To get there, head across Shicao Bridge near Anping Beach, then continue along Shicao North Boulevard until you see DaZhong Street. Turn right into this street until you reach DaZhong Temple. Naturally you can also take the city bus, route 99, but be prepared to wait. Tickets for the 30 minute ride costs NT$150 per adult, while the 70 minute ride costs NT$200.

The tranquility of the Shicao Green Tunnel has really left a deep impression on me, as if I have entered another world and time period.

The decadent Opéra cake

The Opéra cake is a type of French cake that is rectangular shaped with visible layers, where with just one bite, one is able to taste the entire cake’s flavour and texture. It is created with three delicate layers of almond sponge cake, also known as Joconde in French, which is bathed in coffee syrup.  Then it is garnished with coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache while the top of the cake is coated in a dark chocolate glaze.

There are conflicting theories as to the origin of this cake.  Some say that the cake was originally created at the beginning of the 20th century by Louis Clichy, a famous pastry chef, who naturally named it ‘the Clichy’.  However, the Parisian pâtisserie house, Dalloyau, claims its chef, Cyriaque Gavillon, invented this cake in 1955.  It was his wife who who named it the ‘Opéra Gâteau’ or Opera Cake in tribute of a prima ballerina (a highly distinguished ballet dancer) in the Paris Opera, and so it is mostly known as the opera cake today.

Regardless of who was the first to invent the opera cake, it is certainly worth trying for those who want to indulge in a rich and decadent cake, especially with a cup of quality black coffee. When the flavour of the black coffee mixes with the chocolate, the rich aroma of the coffee and opera cake escalates in a stormy yet synergistic blend. The result is to die for!

Quiche Lorraine

Quiche lorraine or simply known as quiche, is a classic French dish that can be found all over the world, even in the humble city of Tainan.  While many Taiwanese folk are still unfamiliar as to what is quiche, this famous pastry is starting to win the hearts and appetites of food lovers all over Taiwan. 

It originated in the 16th century, from the northern province of Lorraine in France, sharing the border with Germany.  Thus while the word quiche comes from French, it actually is borrowed from the German word, kuchen, which means cake albeit a savory one.  Originally, quiche lorraine was a rural dish and was cooked in a cast-iron pan where the pastry edges were not crimped or folded. While quiche is considered to be a staple in French cuisine, there are variations in other countries.  In northern England, quiche is known as bacon and egg pie, with a checkered pattern of pastry on the top.

Essentially, a quiche is a savory pastry crust dish with an open face. The filling is comprised of eggs and cream, which becomes a custard when baked for roughly half an hour.  Quite often, further ingredients make up the rest of the filling, such as meat or vegetables. Traditionally, quiche lorraine is also comprised of bacon and much later on cheese, but there are other popular varieties such as spinach, broccoli, mushrooms, tomatoes or tuna. 

Generally, quiche is eaten as a light meal with a fresh salad, bread and white wine or as a heavy appetiser to a full course meal. And what a delicious appetiser it makes! The combination of baked pastry with egg, cheese and bacon is certainly going to get your mouth to start watering, especially when you cut out your first bite, as the mixture of steam and aroma waft out from within the quiche, almost as if to come out and wish you “bon appetit!” I can confidently say that once you have tried quiche once, there will be a second and third time and so forth.

Old Town, Tainan City

While Tainan is the oldest city in Taiwan and was the first capital of the country, it is by no means antiquated or backwater as some have been led to believe. Initially, I was one of those people who perceived Tainan as a sleepy old town when I moved from the bustling Taipei. To many outsiders, Tainan City is often associated with ancient temples, historical sites, traditional snacks and retired, old folk. Ho-hum!

While there is no denying that Tainan is rich with the above mentioned, I have discovered through my time here, that there is actually more than traditional cultural tourism in Tainan. Although I have grown to appreciate the old world charm of this relaxed and friendly city, those who are more interested in other pursuits will be pleasantly surprised here as there are indeed an abundance of cafes, restaurants, bars, shops and outdoor activities. However, this is what makes Tainan so enchanting, where the modern blends harmoniously with the traditional. This is certainly no easy accomplishment as there are cities who mix old with new, but the outcome is often more ultra-consumerist modernism devouring the old and traditional. 

So having lived for nearly three years in Tainan now, I actually find myself preferring to live here rather than a sprawling metropolis. Interestingly enough, many locals say that no matter where they go or how long they are away, they always want to return to Tainan. Could it be the sunny and pleasant weather? The friendliness of locals? Or the sheer number of traditional eateries available? Perhaps it is all these things and more, but in the words of the famous Taiwanese writer, Yeh Shih-Tao, “Tainan, it’s a place for people to dream, work, fall in love, get married and live life leisurely.”

Photo of the Chinese Banyan Tree at my old school, Cheng-Kung university in Tainan. To me, this scene represents how the tree, like Tainan, offers shelter, beauty and a gathering place to relax with others.  Despite its old age, it continues to flourish.

Basics of Buying Watches: Waterproof and Water-Resistant

via: flickr.com/guysie

Some people have asked me what is the difference between a "waterproof" watch and a "water-resistant" one.  Truth to be told, there is actually little difference despite what others may claim.  Waterproof was initially coined to describe a watch that prevented water from penetrating its casing under normal everyday usage conditions.

However, since the late 1960s, the term "waterproof" was put to an end by various government organisations, such as the US Federal Trade Commission.  The reason for this was that the word waterproof was found to be misleading, as in the products that were labeled and advertised as waterproof were not actually 100% well, waterproof.  That is to say, the seals of watch casings meant for keeping out water were not entirely impermeable.  Furthermore, the effectiveness of the seals would diminish over time through age, wear and tear as well as exposure to chemicals.

Therefore, many watches today are labeled as water-resistant and will specify its depth rating in meters or feet.  This practice has been issued by the International Organization for Standardization, which many countries have adopted, thus forbidding the term "waterproof" to be used with watches.

However, just because watches are water-resistant to depths of over a hundred meters does not mean you should wear it in the bath or shower.  Water resistance means it can prevent the entry of water under the depth pressure it was tested in, under laboratory conditions.  Water-resistance does not factor in high water temperatures (higher than body temperature), since most of these watches were created for and tested in  cold water, hence the heat will severely damage the seals of the watch.  Additionally, sharp changes in water pressure from activities such as swimming on the surface, may adversely affect your watch too.  Moreover, sudden changes in water temperature, going from hot to cold water or vice-versa, may cause the rubber seals to contract, allowing for water to seep in. Finally, soap can also damage your watch as it accumulates in the small joints and can slowly deteriorate the metals outside.

So, please people, I once again implore you, do not wear your watches when showering or bathing unless you want to damage your watch.

Basics of buying a Watch pt 2: Chronograph Watch

It seems that a certain degree of misunderstanding is prevalent among some people with regards to water-proof watches.  Just because you can use the watch under water, certainly does not mean you can can wear it in the shower or bath.  The reason for this is that during showers or baths, the steam generated by the hot water is able to enter the watch casing, once the temperature cools, the water vapor is transformed into water, thus severely damaging the parts inside the watch.  Hence, please do not ever wear watches when you shower or bath.  I thank Mr Tsai for reminding me about this.

Chronograph Watch
A chronograph is a complication watch, which means it has functions apart from just telling the time.  The chronograph is essentially a fancy name for a watch with a stopwatch function, where the watch has an independent sweep seconds hand.  The name comes from the Greek words of 'chronos' and 'graph', which mean time and writing respectively. It was arguably invented by Nicholas Rieussec for the French King XVIII, as the monarch thoroughly enjoyed watching horse races and wanted to know how long each race lasted. 

Tag Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887

Generally, there are three major types of chronographs today, namely single pusher, flyback and rattrapante. The single pusher uses one button on the side of the watch case to start, stop and reset the timer on each successive push.  A flyback chronograph means there is one button to start and stop the chronograph function and another button to reset the timer to zero.  A rattrapante is also known as a split-seconds or double chronograph as it consists of two chronograph seconds hands.  The first push of the first button starts both hands together, another push will stop one hand, while the other hand will continue moving.  Another push will allow the stopped hand to catch up to the moving hand.  The second button allows both seconds hands to be reset to zero.

IWC Portuguese Rattrapante

Most chronographs have the independent sweep seconds hand mounted in the center and rests vertically. There are subdials that display the minutes and running seconds. Typically the designs of chronograph watches can be said to look more sporty or utilitarian, thus inferring masculine qualities.  The size of the face usually varies from 40mm to 48mm.  Naturally many people today will suggest that the chronograph is redundant since almost all digital watches and mobile phones have a stopwatch function, but there are occasions when the chronograph is handy.  

When to Wear:
At the office, so you can count the exact amount of time it takes for your boss to lose his temper again.  At the gym to measure the time between your work-outs. When you need to time yourself swimming or running. Basically you can take your chronograph everywhere except for the most formal events and showers.

Classic Chronograph Watches: 
Omega Speedmaster Professional, Mont Blanc Nicholas Rieussec, Breitling Navitimer, Zenith El Primero, (Tag) Heuer Carrera Calibre, Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Basics of buying a Watch pt 2: Watch types

Below are some of the various types of watches available today.  I will describe their purpose and which situations are most suitable to wear them.

Piaget Altiplano

Dress Watch
This is the watch to wear when you dress up for formal events, hence the name of dress watch. The styling is classic, elegant and subtle.  It is characterized by a clean and simple dial, either in black or white, often with a leather strap.  Remember, the colour of your watch strap should be the same colour as your belt and shoes, otherwise it will look rather uncoordinated.  

via fashiz.tumblr.com

Quite often, the watch case is slim and not too big, often 40mm and smaller.  Note that the purpose of the dress watch is not to shout and show off, but rather serve as an accessory to complete the smart and formal look. Class and understatement is what the dress watch confers.




When to wear: With a suit when you go to court, attend weddings, funerals and formal parties. Alternatively, you can also wear it with a sports coat (similar to a suit jacket) or shirt, and smarten up a casual look.
Classic examples: Piaget Altiplano, Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, Cartier Tank, Patek Philippe Calatrava


Diver's Watch

divers-watches.net

These watches usually have a more rugged design, with a rotating bezel surrounding the face of the watch.  The purpose of these watches originated from diving. The bezel saves divers the trouble of remembering how long they have been underwater.  It features markings of 0, 10, 20, and so forth.  The diver aligns the zero marking on the bezel to the minute hand to track the number of minutes passed underwater. 

Furthermore, if the bezel does not have a locking mechanism, it should be uni-directional (counter-clockwise), as a safety measure, in case the diver accidentally bumps the watch, in which case will increase the supposed elapsed time.  This would cause the diver to return to surface prematurely, ensuring the diver never stays underwater for too long.

In addition, the hands and markers of the watch should be luminous for situations where lighting is limited underwater. This includes the seconds hand, to show that the watch has not stopped, as many dive watches possess a mechanical movement.  As legibility is important, the face of the watch is usually 40mm and bigger, sometimes up to 48mm. Naturally they need to be water resistant of at least 100 meters, although some are resistant up to over 1000 meters.   Also, the straps are either stainless steel or rubber since the watch was intended for wear underwater.

Rolex Submariner

However, many people who wear diving watches actually do not dive, but like the rugged and sporty design or the sense of exploration and excitement associated with diving.

When to wear: With a wet-suit or swimming trunks or wear it with casual clothes such as shorts and t-shirt.  Many people also wear it with their suit to present a paradoxical image of formality and the wild, whereas others just wear it to show off and feign a persona of masculinity and adventure.
Classic Examples: Rolex Submariner, Panerai Luminor Marina, Seiko Monster, Omega Seamaster, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms

買錶的基本知識 part1

Cartier Flying Tourbillion

最近身邊的朋友開始覺得該買隻像樣的錶，所以我就來分享買錶時該注意的基本事項。對觀念傳統的人而言，除了袖釦、領帶夾以外，男生能配戴的飾品就是手錶。

手錶最基本的功能就是報時，但現在車內配備、手機、各種公共場合都很容易獲得時間的資訊，手錶報時的重要性就減少，戴錶的象徵意義大於功能性。也就是說，配戴手錶的同時也是個人特質、生活型態與地位的展現。再者，戴錶隱約透露出你對守時的重視；而在工作場合中，看錶報時比起看手機報時顯得較嚴謹、專業。當然，如果你帶一隻Mickey Mouse或是Hello Kitty的手錶，你百分之百會被當成小朋友看。

機芯是測量、產生精確時間的裝置，也就是手錶的心臟。一般來說，根據機芯的不同將錶分為兩類:機械錶和石英錶。

機械錶
機芯是使用機械裝置來測量時間，它是透過上發條儲存動力，接著用齒輪來傳送動能至擺輪，藉由擺輪的穩定頻率均化發條的動力輸出，進而推動機芯規律的運作。另外，秒針是隨擺輪移動，擺輪搖晃的頻率越高，秒針越平滑順暢。

朗格機芯

石英錶
使用特殊設計的電池提供電流促使石英結晶體產生快速且穩定的振動頻率，接著透過晶片將此頻率放大傳輸至馬達將其轉化為動力，推動指針。

ETA 石英機芯

機械錶報時不比石英錶精準，且必須定期保養，其價格也比較高昂，但一般來說機械錶仍獲得相對好的評價。原因是機械錶的製作需要精湛的工藝技術，它所展現的美感與數百年的歷史傳承。此外，機械表若妥善照顧，使用年限達數十年，可做為傳家寶代代相傳；反之，石英錶的壽命就相對有限。因此，極具收藏價值的錶款都是機械錶。

如果你戴錶只是為了追隨當季流行時尚，石英錶會是你的首選。
如果你買錶前有做點功課，機械錶是可以適度展現你的品味與質感，又可傳家的明智選擇。

犯了這些錯，穿再帥也沒救

parisiandaily.com

最近我看到越來越多男生穿著得比較正式，這表示他們開始注意外表，而這是一個好的轉變。然而，我也發現很多人對於穿著的基本規則不太懂。但有些穿西裝的重要禮儀和基本穿著搭配是男生一定要知道的。

即便你覺得西裝外套和西裝褲的材質、顏色差不多，但兩者一定要一致，不要亂混搭!旁人是有眼睛分辨出材質與顏色的差異，他們會以為你買不起一整套西裝、再不然就是西裝褲洗了還沒乾，才會黑色外套配深深灰的褲子。如果你想要走混搭風，就挑對比明顯的顏色，像是海軍藍vs.白。

megasuits.blogspot.com

穿西裝，永遠記得當你站立時最後一顆釦子不要扣，不管是兩顆、三顆釦子或是雙排扣的西裝都一樣。如果你的西裝是單一顆扣子，在你起身當然就該扣起來。而在你坐下的時候就要記得把西裝釦子解開，但雙排釦無論是站立或坐下都只能扣著。這個不起眼的小動作，在懂得禮儀的人眼裡，自然會為你的表現加分。我女朋友去某銀行面試時，就有遇過同場的應徵者被董事長提點穿著禮儀，要他坐下時要記得把釦子解開，這樣西裝才不會皺皺的影響觀感。

請記得襯衫最上面的釦子不要扣，除非你有打領帶或領結，不然別人會以為你早上趕著出門忘了打領帶。另外，皮帶跟皮鞋的顏色要一樣，穿咖啡色皮鞋就要用咖啡色皮帶，穿黑色皮鞋就要用黑色皮帶，簡單來說就是皮件類的物品顏色要一致。

modgentman.com

襪子的顏色是要跟褲子接近或同色系，而不是根據鞋子的顏色來搭配。此外，除非你要模仿Michael Jackson，千萬不要黑鞋配白襪!唯一的例外是你想要表現獨特的時尚品味，你才會穿跟褲子不同顏色的襪子，像是灰色西裝搭配紫色襪子。

collegehumor.com

今年夏天，台灣男生喜歡把polo衫領子往上翻，這是屬於1970、1990年代的流行，如果你怕太陽毒辣讓脖子曬傷，寧可花錢買罐係數高品質好的防曬乳，也不要再當古人了，這樣一點都不MAN。


如果你有使用袋巾，記得材質和顏色要跟領帶不一樣。不然會顯得你很刻意或是有強迫症，同時也透露你對顏色的搭配沒什麼概念。還有金屬配件的顏色不要金、銀混搭，例如；銀色袖扣，金色手表，銀色戒指，不是穿金又戴銀就會提高你的身分地位。

adorn-london.com

附帶一提，即便再流行的穿搭方式，不適合自己的身形就不要勉強，你不是模特兒身高180，短褲配靴子只會顯得你腿短腿粗又矮。

最後，如果你不是視障朋友，就不要在夜間或室內戴墨鏡，不然你就成了自以為帥的渾蛋。

Basics of buying a watch pt 1 continued [Update]

Something I forgot to add with regards to mechanical watches was that there are 2 types of mechanical watches, namely manual and self-winding.

Manual Mechanical Watch

Panerai Manual Winding Watch

This means the main spring of the watch must be wound manually to power the movement of the watch.  Generally this requires the wearer to turn the crown of the watch, (a knob on the outside of the watch case) to wind the main spring. Below is a diagram to explain the process by Tourneau.com's Knowledge Center:

tourneau.com

1. Turning the Crown winds the Mainspring, causing it to store energy.
2. The Gear Train transfers the energy to the Escapement.
3. The Escapement meters out the energy into regulated parts.
4. The Balance Wheel uses this regulated energy to beat back and forth at a constant rate.
5. Every certain number of beats, the Dial Train transfers the energy to the hands of the watch.
6. The hands advance.

Self winding Mechanical Watch
This is commonly known as an automatic movement.  The main spring is wound by a rotor, which is turned by the movements of the wearer's wrist and gravity, hence powered by kinetic energy.

Audemars Piguet Rotor (back of the watch)

When the main spring is wound, it builds up energy, which is slowly released to run the watch.  On average, most mechanical watches can run for roughly 40 hours on one full winding. Naturally, once the main spring has released all its stored energy, the balance wheel will stop, which causes the watch to stop, unless it is wound again. Furthermore, mechanical movements could face the risk of over winding the watch, but most mechanical watches these days have a slipping clutch device used on the main spring to prevent this from happening. The diagram below represents the steps involved in the working of automatic movements by Tourneau.com:

tourneau.com

1. Movement of the wrist turns the Rotor which winds the Mainspring. Turning the Crown will also wind the Mainspring.
2. The Gear Train transfers the energy to the Escapement.
3. The Escapement meters out the energy into regulated parts.
4. The Balance Wheel uses this regulated energy to beat back and forth at a constant rate.
5. Every certain number of beats, the Dial Train transfers the energy to the hands of the watch.
6. The hands advance.

Quartz Watch 

The diagram below illustrates the process of how a quartz watch works by Tourneau.com:

tourneau.com

1. Electricity is carried from the Battery to the Quartz Crystal via the Integrated Circuit.
2. The electricity makes the Quartz Crystal vibrate at a rate of 32,768 vibrations per second.
3. These electrical pulses are sent via the Integrated Circuit to the Stepping Motor.
4. The Stepping Motor sends every 32,768th electrical pulse to the Dial Train.
5. The Dial Train advances the hands on the watch.

Basics of buying a watch pt 1

Recently a number of friends are interested in buying their first serious watch, thus I would like to discuss some the the basic things to look for when purchasing a watch.  To traditionalists and conservatives, the watch is the only acceptable form of jewelry a man can wear, besides cuff-links and tie-bars.  

Naturally the purpose of the watch is to tell the time, but in this day and age, where the time is available in our car, on our phones, in public and so forth, the importance of telling the time on your wrist has decreased.  Hence the current emphasis of wearing a watch can be said to be more form over functionality. This means it provides another opportunity for self-expression of your personality, life-style and status.  In addition, wearing a watch subtly indicates that you care about keeping time and in the professional world, you will be taken a bit more seriously when you wear a watch as compared to whipping out your smartphone to tell the time. Obviously if you wear a Mickey Mouse or Hello Kitty watch, I don't think you will be taken seriously at all.

Generally, there are two types of watches based on their movements.  A movement is a device that measures the passage of time as well as displays the current time. The two types of movements are mechanical and electronic, commonly known as quartz movement.

Mechanical
These types of movements essentially use a mechanical mechanism to measure time and is powered by a spring that needs to be wound regularly to build up energy.  It releases the energy through a series of gears to power the balance wheel, which through other mechanisms, move the hands of the watch at a constant rate. The seconds hand of a mechanical watch can be said to 'glide' or move around smoothly. 

Electronic/Quartz
forums.watchuseek.com

Mechanical Movement
ofrei.com

Electronic or Quartz Movement
These watches use a specially designed battery that activate a quartz crystal to vibrate very quickly.  These vibrations are converted into energy by a computer chip to drive an electronic motor, which move the watch's hands.  The seconds hand can be seen to tick every second, but some quartz powered watches also have seconds hands that glide. 

Although mechanical watches are less accurate than electronic powered watches, and require periodic maintenance, mechanical watches are more expensive and considered more prestigious.  The reason for this is there is craftsmanship, aesthetics and tradition associated with mechanical watches.  Moreover, if properly maintained, it can last much longer and passed down through generations, whereas the electronic circuitry of quartz powered watches have a limited lifespan.  Thus serious timepieces only consist of mechanical movements.

So if you want a watch just for fashion purposes where you can throw away next season, a quartz watch is probably more suitable for you.  However, if you want a watch that will be taken more seriously, where you can keep it for many years and pass down to others, rather get a mechanical watch.

Manners matter more than most people realise

For the past few months, I have been discussing the importance of appearances and setting first impressions. What you wear and how you dress sends out invisible messages about yourself, and the people who see you receive these messages and make subconscious judgments.  The people who are aware of this fact present themselves in the way they want people to perceive them, be it professional, stylish, or glamorous. 

Photo via: blackdiamondsky.com

However, even if you look like a million bucks (or these days perhaps a billion dollars), your manner or lack thereof could betray you.  This usually happens when someone opens their mouth to boorishly express themselves or does an action that is plainly uncouth, thereby shattering the illusion of their appearance, like a glamour spell dissipating abruptly. For example, a man wearing a tailored suit enters his BMW limousine, and so I start making reasonably positive judgments, but then he tosses his cigarette out of his window and he is now no better than a dog peeing on the side of a street.

Quite often, I find myself sounding like an old man, and this is probably one of those cases.  We currently live in a time where dress codes have become more and more casual, hence the sense of occasion has started to diminish, but this does not mean etiquette should be eroded too.  Unfortunately, a lot of people forget their manners and a lot of these people forget they are in public spaces.  To my great annoyance, some people will talk really loudly on the phone in the bus or train, others will push their way across queues, or step on my shoes in a crowded place without apologizing.  These sort of actions should be put with transgressions such as smoking in public! 


Perhaps its the faster paced lifestyle that we live in, but far too often people don't say please and thank you enough or excuse me, especially to those who work in the service industry.  No wonder you get bad service.  Having a bit of manners and etiquette will not hurt, in fact it will most certainly help.  People are more likely to give you their attention, their help or service as well as their respect.  This does not mean be a tight arsed sissy, you can be an ice-cold son of a bitch, but be polite about it.  It will make you even more intimidating or charming, depending how you want to present yourself.  Additionally, having manners does not imply you should be a snob about it, as the purpose of being polite is to be more sociable and more accepted by others.  


Therefore, in conclusion to this little rant of mine, be mindful of manners. Watch what you say and how you act in public.  If you are unsure, ask the people close to you or you can ask me :p

男人該知道如何打領帶

我常說男人應該知道怎麼打領帶，因為它是一件很簡單但重要的事。 雖然大家都穿得越來越休閒，正式場合或上班面試還是需要打領帶! 男生不會自己打領帶應該會被笑不夠man。有時候這不是你的錯，畢竟在台灣打領帶的機會不多，所以學習的動機不足，但出社會就不一樣了，不會打領帶的朋友們請好好學習! 


最後，為避免尷尬，請記得領帶箭頭的長度是到皮帶上緣為止。

穿衣服不只是看心情，合你身材最重要

依我而言，不管穿什麼衣服，適合你的身材是最重要的事。你可以買最貴、品質最棒的衣服，但如果它們不合你的身材，這會讓你看起來還是很糟糕。

為了自己在工作場合讓人覺得穿著夠體面，你必須選擇合身的衣服，但這不代表得穿令你無法喘氣的緊身衣。不論你的身材如何，都應該要穿可以展現你體格身型的樣式。有很多男生抱怨合身的衣服會讓你穿的不自在，這是因為布料品質不佳，衣服確實是太緊等原因。

為什麼我如此強調衣服，特別是正式服裝必須要合身呢?首先，當你穿大好幾尺碼的衣服會很俗氣。而且你就像個小朋友穿大人衣服裝成熟。之前，由於我自己個子不高又不懂得穿衣服，常犯這種錯誤。穿衣要合身但太緊也不好，幸運的話你會被當成穿緊身衣的超人，糟一點就成了giant condom。

在台灣，我常看到很多大叔穿比自己身材大三號的西裝，他們腦袋到底在想什麼?有位長者的說法是，穿大一點的西裝會看起來比較有架勢。我想他們必須為穿西裝就是老氣又無趣的刻板印象負點責任。我可以了解在他們那個年代，流行穿起來方方正正像是樂高玩具的款式，但現在看起來就很蠢。


你必須了解自己的身材，別自欺欺人!大部分男生都覺得自己穿衣服要大一號，或許是自尊心作祟，加上我們常不自覺誇大某個地方的尺寸，但通常你不如自己想像中來的大。

Mistakes to avoid when Suiting Up

Recently I’ve seen lots of pictures of guys wearing formal wear, which is really encouraging to see there are a growing number of guys who do care how they look.  However, I have noticed many of them are unaware of certain do’s and don’ts (faux pas), some minor or very obvious.  I think it’s important that guys are aware of certain etiquette and basic fashion sense that comes with wearing formal clothes.

Don’t wear different material jacket and pants, even though you think they look very similar.  Trust me when I say that we will notice the difference and  will get the impression that you are trying to hide the fact that it’s mismatching.  If you want to wear mismatching jacket and pants, make the colour difference more obvious, such as navy blue and white or black and grey.

Photo via: itsallstyletome.com

When you are wearing your suit, always button your suit, but leave the bottom button unbuttoned when you are standing, no matter if its a three or two buttoned suit, or even a double breasted suit.  Obviously if you have a one button suit, then button it up. When you sit down, you should remember to unbutton your jacket, except for the double breasted jacket, which you keep buttoned. This is common etiquette for guys.  This little action may not be obvious, but for those who know, it makes a difference in our perception of you.  My girlfriend went to a job interview for one of the banks in Taiwan, where she was with another candidate.  That candidate was wearing a suit, and he got told off by the CEO for not unbuttoning his suit jacket when seated.

Photo via: Forest Gump

Please remember that your collar button (top button) must be undone unless you wear a tie or bow tie.  Otherwise it looks like you forgot your tie this morning.

Quite important is that your belt must be same colour as your shoes, or else it looks really funny. So, brown belt goes with brown shoes, black belt matches black shoes.

Socks must be a similar colour to your pants, not your shoes! And definitely no black shoes, white socks unless you want to look like Michael Jackson.  The only exception is if you want to show off your fashion sense (peacocking), then you wear socks that are in a different colour, e.g purple socks with a grey suit.

Photo via: blog.gotoohlala.com

This I see quite often, your collar must never be popped, be it for shirts or polo t-shirts, and never over your jacket lapel. It was only cool in the 1970s, not anymore.

If you wear a pocket square, never wear it with a matching tie, as this shows either you are trying too hard and have obsessive compulsive behaviour in matching clothing or have no clue on how to match different colours and patterns.

Photo via: paulmalone.eu

Also don’t mix silver with gold accessories. e.g Silver cufflinks, gold watch, silver rings.  You will look really ghetto.

Photo via: sflittlefashionista.blogspot.com 

And on a non-formal note, but I see this too often unfortunately, don’t wear boots with shorts. It makes you look so much shorter and it looks silly.

In addition, don't wear sunglasses indoors or at night, unless you are a blind person or a douche

Wear clothes that fit your physique, not just your ego

In my opinion, this is the most important aspect.  Not just for suits, but for wearing clothes in general.  You could buy the most expensive and finest clothes, but if they don't fit you properly, you will still look rubbish. In order to look great in the real working world, you need to wear clothes that fit you.  This does not mean the clothes hug your body so tight like a second skin, but rather fit your physique so the outline of your figure is still visible, no matter what shape you are.  Sure, lots of guys complain that clothes that fit properly are uncomfortable, but that is due to either the material is of poor quality, its too tight or those guys have claustrophobia in clothes.  

So why do I stress so much about clothes, especially formal clothes, must fit well?  When you wear clothes that are a few sizes too big for you, first its very tacky, and second, you look like a child who is wearing their dad’s clothes and pretending to be an adult. I have made this mistake quite often before, since my stature is very short, so the old me would look like this:

On the other end of the scale, if you wear clothes that are too tight, you either look like a superhero wearing tights if you’re lucky, or like a giant condom.

In Taiwan, I see almost every uncle who wears a suit, is wearing one that is 3 sizes too big for them. What in the world are they thinking? I heard from an elder that it looks good, makes them look substantial and imposing.  I can understand it looked good during that time, but now it does not look imposing, it looks ridiculous. They look like a lego toy in a suit, all boxy above the waist. In my opinion, I think they are partially responsible for ruining the image of wearing a suit as they helped create the perception that wearing a suit is old fashioned, boxy and boring.

Hence I suggest you must know yourself young grasshopper and be honest to yourself! Most guys think they are always one size bigger. Maybe its got to do with our ego and other sizes that we are very concerned about but most often than not, you are not as big as you think. If you are unsure, I suggest you get someone to measure your proportions. I promise you that you will look so much better wearing fitting clothes as opposed to tight or baggy. Look at the difference in the picture below, which is better?

西裝不要日、夜混搭

Photo via Esquire.com

白天

Photo via searchingforstyle.com

沒有特別的規定，但淺色系比較恰當。白天時儘量避免穿黑西裝，那會讓你顯得嚴肅。而且在白天穿著黑色系衣服的視覺效果強烈，除非你上班地點在華爾街，不然還是低調點好。

晚上

即使不是出席正式場合，黑西裝還是很適合晚間活動，不過它確實會讓你看起來比較嚴肅；其他暗色系也都可以。另外，絨布的觸感柔軟，看起來很獨特，但請記得天鵝絨西裝只適合在晚上穿。我也看過不少西裝的布料閃到可以當鏡子，個人覺得超級無敵醜又沒質感，這種款式只適合去夜店時穿(但我想沒什麼女生會欣賞...)。

無論上班或面試，要有專業形象就是要穿西裝!

 上班&談生意

Photo via GQ

該穿什麼樣的西裝得看你公司的文化以及你身處的位階。假如你得要穿西裝，菜鳥應該要選擇相對保守的顏色和款式，通常是深灰、深藍或是黑色，而且最好是素面；如果老闆不介意，淺灰色也是不錯的選擇。扣子的數目以兩扣、三扣最恰當，一扣是偏休閒的設計在工作場合比較不適宜。
晉升到老鳥的你，要保守、要花俏都可以，條紋或是格子的款式也會有不同的風格。如果你想要讓自己看起來更有主管的架勢，則可以考慮合身雙排扣款式。

Photo via Askmen.com

面試

沒得選，不管是去哪家公司面試，西裝是你最佳且唯一的選擇，這也展現你對這份工作的重視。怎麼穿？簡單，保守就對了!你又不是在相親還是casting，讓他們留下印象的是你的能力、經驗而不是你的外表。你去面試穿西裝要合身，不可太寬鬆(給人感覺邋遢)，別忘了要燙衣服!襯衫顏色以白色或淺藍色為佳。千千萬萬要打領帶(深色且素面)!把西裝穿對、穿好會帶給他人具有專業形象的感覺，這也會讓對方更注意你。

photo via Sartorialist

When to Suit Up! Part 3

Photo via Suit Supply

During the day:

There aren’t many guidelines for wearing a suit generally during the daytime, although lighter colours are more suitable. Just remember try not to wear a black suit unless it’s for formal events. It makes your presence very serious, and makes you seem less approachable or like the men in black. Furthermore, black is a direct contrast to daytime, and so you will really stick out when walking down the street, unless its Wall Street :p.

Night time only:

Photo via Tom Ford

Black suits are quite suitable for night time wear, even if you are not attending a formal function, but again, it does make you seem more serious.  Other dark coloured suits are fine, but the velvet suit is only suitable for wear at night.  It is a very different style of suit, but you will definitely stand out, but the fabric does feel nice to touch, which is great when you are surrounded by girls.

I also see a number of suits that offer a very reflective shine to the point where I can see my reflection in the suit, like chrome grey, which in my opinion is really ostentatious to the point of vulgar. This type of suit is fine for going to night clubs with.  Anywhere else is just wrong.